This tiny town in BC is my perfect winter escape with cozy streets and storybook shops
I love winter… in theory. In practice, winter in the city feels like damp socks, confusion as to whether you have seasonal depression or depression-depression, and panic-Googling "remote jobs" in tandem with "Airbnbs in Costa Rica."
So, when I say I found a B.C. winter escape that actually made me like winter — not just tolerate it, not romanticize it after the fact, but genuinely get that warm and cozy hot-chocolate-by-the-fire-rewatching-a-nostalgic-TV-show bliss — I mean it.
Now, to preface before I dive in: Whistler is stunning. It's bigger, fancier, and absolutely the move if your ideal winter getaway involves high-commitment to intensive après and low commitment to worrying about your bank account. But that isn't this story. This is about escaping.
Enter: Big White. Tiny. Snowy. Magical. Mountainous. Twinkling streets. Storybook shops. Quieter than Whistler. A true reset.
Here's absolutely everything you need to know:
Getting there
If you're coming from Vancouver, getting to Big White is part of the charm, not something to power through with gas station snacks and road rage.
Most people fly into Kelowna's International Airport, then take the scenic drive up the mountain, which gently pulls you out of city mode and into winter-escape territory. You can drive the whole way if you're feeling brave, just make sure you have winter tires. The Coquihalla is not for the faint of heart.
Before heading straight up, make a stop in the Okanagan Valley. Winter wine tasting here is calm, quiet, and unexpectedly beautiful, with vineyards dusted in snow. The wineries will insist you try their ice wine. It's far too sweet. But I love carrying out that strange ritual of pretending you like something as to not insult the person giving it to you. Do it for the experience, then recover with a glass of red.
Exploring the village
You've arrived! And have already — inevitably — checked into some adorably quaint place that smells like cedar, has a crackling fireplace, and at least one real wool blanket. Now it's time to explore the town.
Big White looks much like what you'd imagine a fairytale mountaintop village to be. A grand clock tower peaking through the spruce trees, cabin-style buildings buried under thick blankets of snow, and twinkly lights everywhere.
As for shopping, it's short and sweet with a total of around five distinct retail stores to explore. These charming spots sell everything from top-tier mountain gear to relatively useless souvenirs that you'll most likely buy.
Satisfy your inner foodie
In the morning, if you're craving a proper meal like a regular person, The BullWheel is the answer — you truly can't go wrong with the breakfast platter.
But, if you're like me and believe dessert for breakfast is perfectly acceptable (and encouraged on vacation), Toasty is a non-negotiable. You can't really go wrong here. The hot chocolate. The crème brûlée donut. Every single other pastry. You're enjoying your winter escape! Go crazy.
For lunch, The Woods (specifically the onion soup) is the perfect midday stop. It's rustic, cozy, and offers the ideal atmosphere to soak in that warm chalet ambience that screams "look at me romanticizing winter!"
For dinner, Sopra is the move, because what's the point of a winter escape if it isn't coupled with a gorgeous Italian meal at the end of every day?
Skiing? Sure. But it's not mandatory
Yes, Big White is a ski and snowboard resort destination. But if you're not into hurtling yourself down a mountain at high speeds (same), there are still plenty of activities for you.
Activity 1: Snowshoeing tours. Start in Happy Valley and wander through 14 km of quiet, snow-covered wilderness trails. It's peaceful, scenic, and requires virtually zero skill. Just warm socks and an appreciation for mountain air.
Activity 2: Skate on Canada’s highest outdoor rink. No, that's not a typo. Located in Happy Valley at an elevation of 1,755 metres, this Olympic-sized outdoor rink comes complete with rentals, fire pits, and a snowy alpine backdrop. Take Lara's Gondola from the Village Centre and glide your way into a scene that feels straight out of a high budget Hallmark winter rom-com. Romantic? Yes. Beginner-friendly? Also yes.
Activity 3: Tubing. This one's for your inner child. Stop lying, we all want to sit in a rubber donut and slide down a mountain until gravity, an innocent pedestrian, another tube, or fate itself brings you to a stop. Zero skill. Maximum joy.
Activity 4: Snowmobile tours. Self-explanatory.
Après your way
Ah yes. The entire point of ever going to a ski resort. The aprés.
The Woods Outdoor Concession is perfect for a casual beer after skiing or snowboarding — you can literally slide right up to the vibrant outdoor patio. Grab a snack, warm drink, or cold brew while soaking in the snowy alpine vibes.
For the early-20s crowd (the same clientele that would hit Bill's in Whistler) Snowshoe Sam's is your spot. Crowded, lively, packed full with many a toques and lifties.
Or, my personal favourite type of aprés: skip the crowds altogether. Relax in your private hot tub (at the cute b&b we discussed with the fireplace and wool blanket), open a bottle of Okanagan wine from The Market, turn on your Spotify playlist, and enjoy all the comforts of aprés-ing without having to leave your accommodation.
Walk Happy Valley's twinkling trail
Yes, it is as cute as it sounds.
One of my favourite surprises when visiting Big White was this sweet illuminated walking path that turns the nighttime forest into a full-on winter fairytale. No gear required. Just wander through glowing lights, quiet snow, and soak up that calm, magical feeling you only get at night in the mountains.
Saturday night fireworks
Every Saturday night from December through early April, Big White puts on fireworks at 8:15 p.m. I guess their marketing team figured, what's winter if not enjoyed with weekly pyrotechnics?
You can watch these from: your accommodation, a restaurant or patio, or during a nighttime skate at the Happy Valley Skating Rink. Wherever you are, the snow lights up, the sky explodes in colour, and suddenly, winter feels not so dark after all.
Big White is winter done right. Cozy without being boring. Festive without being overwhelming. Active if you want it, relaxing if you don't. The perfect, honest to goodness, escape.
You can thank me later.
The views expressed in this Opinion article are the author’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of Narcity Media.
